Now available for 3" and 5" lift heights, in both "regular" and "long" versions. The regular versions are for folks running up to and including 35" tires, the long versions are for folks running 37" tires.

The REGULAR version is slightly long than stock radius arms, to keep the wheelbase factory as the lift goes up.

The LONG version is 1" longer than stock arms to push the axle forward and reduce the need for trimming factory sheetmetal when running larger tires (37"+ tires). Long versions change caster the same as regular version, it is ONLY a length difference for tire sizes. THIS DOES NOT CHANGE HOW MUCH CASTER THE ARMS PROVIDE. A 3" AND A 3L ARM CORRECT THE SAME AMOUNT.

Our caster correcting radius arms are 100% Made in USA from laser cut steel.

FEATURES:

1. After installing as small of a lift as 2” on their Land Cruiser, many people find the handling of their rigs to be unstable. This is due to the caster being incorrect. Our radius arms are available in many different sizes to suit your needs, getting your 80 back on “track” and driving the way it should.
2. Our arms not only correct the caster, but they also keep your wheelbase stock. This is key for keeping factory handling characteristics, and something you will not achieve by using caster correcting plates.
3. Our arms are considerably narrower than stock arms and allow for significantly more flex without interfering with the axle mounts. That’s what lifts are for, right? FLEX

The arms are available with or without NEW OEM bushings installed and NEW OEM hardware. The Toyota Factory Service Manual states this hardware is "one-time-use", we do not force you to purchase this hardware as you may have your own source for it, but we do require if we do the install. All arms are powdercoated semi-gloss black.

Started a thread on ih8mud a while ago with a google sheet that people can enter their caster info before/after a lift, along with what lift was installed, and what was done to correct caster. Can be viewed here, the first post is most important and has the pertinent info. If you're going to ask "what arms do I need", please read through first post, check out the spreadsheet to see who has come before you, measure what the thread says, get your current UNcorrected caster checked, then come prepared with info that will help in making that decision.

Due to an overwhelming number of emails asking "what size do I get", adding this info:

We will not tell you which arms to get. Period. This is due to farrrrrrr too many people getting super upset for recommendations based on the info they provided.

My recommendation is:

0. INSTALL LIFT

1. Get rig set up as it will be driven 95% of the time, weight/load-wise (with NO caster correction installed)

2. Get caster checked at tire shop

3. Compare caster numbers with the diagram in the gallery above (if you need any assistance at all with the math, happy to help with that)

4. Choose which arms you want based on results from step 3 (OEM caster is +3*, +- 1* , or in other words, a +2* to +4* window)

5. Enjoy

IMPORTANT NOTES: 4” of lift seems to be the sweet spot for driveline vibes (due to bad pinion angles), if you get caster to the middle/high side of OEM spec. Lots of folks with 4” of lift have installed 4” arms and then moved to 3” arms. If you need the long version (37s, etc), you might be better off suffering with less than ideal caster but better pinion angles the 3” arms will net you.

If you would like to learn about pinion angles and why they are important and how lifting your vehicle and adjusting caster can cause driveline vibrations, please take a look at the excellent Tom Woods video here: https://youtu.be/SH2VIoWOQ0E

If you send an email that says "what size arms do i get" without including the above info, you will be directed to visit this page.

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